First of all, I want to thank Dove Wetsuits for keeping me warm and protected for the past 26 years of my life. From the first day, I knew this was just more than a company, it was more like a family. I traveled the world, met lots of good friends, and lived out my wildest dreams thanks to Dove.
Now at 50 years old, it is a new chapter in my life. I found a new hobby and a new passion for Hydrofoil Surfing. I’ve been foiling for a couple of months and I have to say it is the most challenging thing I’ve ever done. Yes, I surfed big waves, I free dove to the darkest depths, and I’ve even done crazier things you could ever imagine. But, foiling is by far the scariest thing ever and further more, the most dangerous thing I’ve ever done. I already was sent to the Emergency room once, but told myself never to give up.
Not too many people are foiling now so finding someone to teach you is nearly impossible. The learning curve is steep and that’s what keeps me striving to get better. But once you get up on the foil and glide over the ocean, you will have the thrill of your life. I can’t describe how happy it makes me feel, but all I can say is that I’m addicted. I can see waves and swell in a different way now. I can surf the smallest waves and have the feeling of surfing the biggest wave of my life. All I want to do is get better each day and surf different kinds of surf spots all around the world.
現在フォイリングをしてる人はあまり多くないので教えてくれる人を探すのは不可能に近いです。習熟するのは難しくだからもっと上手くなりたくなります。でも一度フォイルで立てれば海を滑走しスリルを味わえるでしょう。どれだけハッピーになるかを表現できませんが言えるのはハマるということ。波とスウェルが今では違う見方ができます。一番小さい波でも大きな波でサーフしている感じが味わえます。毎日サーフして世界の違うサーフスポットでサーフしたいです。
I don’t recommend anyone doing this on your own as I seen the most horrific injuries. The foil had a tendency to come up the same way you fall down so it’s like falling onto a Samurai sword. I’m not trying to scare you, but I’m just trying to inform you into taking your time and learning it the correct and safest way. And when you do that, your ocean life will be endless.
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Rider: Kirby Fukunaga
himself Photo
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